AMARANTA HAS MEXICAN FARE WITH MODERN FLAIR
                   By Larry Lipson, Restaurant Critic 07/12/2007

We've heard of Tex-Mex, Cal-Mex, New Mex-Mex, even Gringo-Mex. At the new Amaranta in the upscale Westfield Topanga Plaza mall in Canoga Park, call it Mod-Mex. Yes, there are plenty of familiar names on the menu. But what comes forth looks nothing like the Mexican fare we're used to seeing under any description.
Large, pristine white plates, round, rectangular, whatever, arrive with carefully crafted, artistically arranged and finished food, most of it worthy of a cookbook magazine cover.
Two chicken tamales ($9), one with a green tomatillo saucing and the other with a rich mole poblano sauce, at first glance look more like fancy pastries than like the everyday, proletarian tamales we know and love.
Accompanied by refried black beans, these good-tasting renditions unfortunately suffer from the same ailment much of Amaranta's handsome fare does: a tepid-to-almost-cool temperature by the time it reaches the intended diner.
Of course, you don't have to worry about that with guacamole ($9) or ceviche ($12). These two cold appetizers are superbly handled here.
The guacamole is made to order from scratch at tableside. Freshly peeled avocados are mashed in a molcajete bowl by the house guacamole maker. It's carefully prepared to the desired peppery heat with green jalapenos, with or without tiny diced tomatoes, with or without cilantro, and mixed with chopped white onion.
Small, house-produced, warm tortillas are delivered with three separate salsas — mild, medium and hot.
The serving of ceviche proves generous and very good. Amaranta uses tilapia, and it works very well, the fish pieces retaining necessary firmness and welcome tart flavor after soaking in the chile-heated, cold lime juice marinade. A trio of tostadas surtidas ($9), mini tortillas topped with a stewed chicken mixture, provides a tasty starting alternative. So does the house tortilla soup ($7), a savory mix of tomato and pasilla chile with avocado, Mexican cheese, sour cream and tortilla strips.
On the entrée side, passable enchiladas ($14 to $16) are tube like rather than flat, pork and sometimes chicken items ranging from dry to dryish.
That includes versions of the famous Yucatan specialty, cochinita pibil ($16) and the festive pollo en mole poblano ($15). Best entrees here so far are the tilapia tacos ($16) with pineapple, habanero salsa, onion and cilantro and a spiced, marinated lamb shank dish called "chamorro de cordero en barbacoa" ($18).
A seasoned ground beef and pork mixture named "picadillo" stuffed into a poblano chile results in a respectable chile relleno plate ($13).
A choice of two accompaniments per main course vary in merit. Black beans would be my No. 1, and a familiar Mexican-style rice recipe No. 2. A black bean puree is merely passable, and assorted vegetables may be one style with shaved raw potato that's somewhat odd, or another with corn niblets, the latter definitely more acceptable.
A five-item dessert list produces a decent rendition of crepas de cajeta ($6), cream-filled crepes, as an adios. At its best: Doubtful you'll find prettier Mexican food anywhere. And thank goodness that in some instances the fare's substance matches its eyecandy looks. Could be better: Attention kitchen and servers make sure the temperature of the food doesn't fall to tepid and below levels when brought to the table. And keep those meats moist.

AMARANTA COCINA MEXICANA

Our rating: 3 Stars.

Details: Westfield Topanga, 6600 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Canoga Park. Lunch and dinner from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday - Wednesday, 10 p.m. Thursday and 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Saturday and Sunday brunch 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. (818) 610-3599. www.amarantarestaurant.com.

Cost: Starters from $3 to $12, entrees from $12 to $19, desserts $5 and $6 each.

Noteworthy: Choose from 400 tequilas and other spirits stocked in a dramatic cubicle back bar reaching high to the ceiling, making it necessary for staffers to climb a ladder to reach the premium bottles.